Today we walked from Logroño to Navarrette. We are keeping our daily distances small because my feet are still healing, and Trog is experiencing some back pain. There is not much to do in most of these small villages. The big attraction, other than all the ancient architecture, is the cathedrals. The cathedrals themselves are like small castles with 1 to 2 foot thick walls, soaring towers, vaulted ceilings, beautiful stained glass windows, huge pipe organs, vast retablos carved out of wood and covered with gold leaf, and other priceless works of art. Last night we came upon a painting by Michelangelo on display within a safe in one of the cathedrals of Logroño.
The daily routine is to wake up around 6 am, pack our bags, and eat a small breakfast. Then we spend the morning walking, usually buying second breakfast along the trail. Upon arrival, we check into an albergue, shower and wash clothes. Then we get some lunch, followed by napping, reading, and/or writing. Dinner usually happens between 6 and 8 pm. Then we go out sightseeing before going to sleep at around 9 or 10 pm.
The walking, even though my feet are hurting is really the highlight. The scenery can’t be beat. We walk over gently rolling hills, through farms and vineyards, through small forests, along rivers and lakes. Often the best views are behind us, as we climb into the hills, turning around to see how far we have come sometimes takes my breath away. It is so lovely I feel sorry for the pilgrims who are so focused on where they are going and with covering as many kilometers as they can each day. They forget to stop and look around and smell the lavender and the sagebrush. To me, the journey matters much more than the destination.